Past Echoes of the Nan Madol Ruins

Whispering from the eastern shore of Pohnpei is the Ancient City of Nan Madol, said to have been built between the 12th and 13th centuries. The local term “Nan Madol,” can literally mean “spaces between,” an apt term to describe the many canals and passages that intersect each other among the ruins.

During the Saudeleur dynasty, the Nan Madol ruins were once a complex of megalithic stone structures that served as both the political and ceremonial seat of the Saudeleur ruler. Numerous entry gates, tunnels, vaults and chambers can be found throughout the ruins. Local legend says that this ancient city might have been built under the powers of a royal magician, making reference to the must-have-been laborious task of lifting the heavy basalt stone components of the megaliths.

In today’s time, a visit to the Nan Madol ruins will let you catch a glimpse of how the past must have been for the Pohnpeian people. The thrill of knowing more about lost civilzations and ancient cities have aroused our curiosities for years, and Nan Madol is no exception. Its mysterious and mythical background is brought to life again for modern audiences through contemporary literature. Since Pohnpei is also mentioned in the story, Nan Madol is believed to be the inspiration for the fictional sunken city of R’Lyeh, the backdrop of H.P. Lovecraft’s Cthulhu Mythos, a favorite among sci-fi and horror fiction enthusiasts.

However, the real story behind the once royal pillars of this old city is still being studied. To preserve and promote the inherent beauty of this ancient wonder, the Nan Madol ruins was declared as one of Micronesia’s National Historical Landmarks. Although small in scale compared to similar stone complexes such as that of Angkor Wat and Borobudur, Nan Madol is still impressive and unique in its own right. A visit to Pohnpei would be incomplete without taking a stop to appreciate this true gem from the past.

Sakau Drinking: Not your average Friday Night brew

Pohnpei sakau, a variant of the Micronesian kava, comes from the pounded roots of the kava or sakau plant. Known for its narcotic effects, sakau is a drink derived by the thorough pounding of the roots of the kava pepper plant using basalt stones and rocks. The mixture is then added to the sap from the bark of hibiscus plant, creating a thick, brown liquid. Many island farmers earn their income from the Phonpei sakau, harvesting them from nearby plantations to be sold at the local sakau market.

The people of Pohnpei considers the kava plant as a sacred and essential part of their culture; the Pohnpei sakau playing a major part in the locals’ festivities, social functions and sacred rituals. During ceremonial feasts, sakau drinking, or attending “Sakau” is highly anticipated and is often held after sunset. Tourists and locals can share a drink of sakau from a common coconut cup and enjoy a peaceful night of celebration. For events such as these, one can consume a sakau cup directly from the stone or in milder, bottled versions like those sold in sakau markets. Around the island, numerous markets and stores can be found offering a variety of sakau ranging from the hardcore, thick stone-brew to the thin and watered down concoctions.

Although almost all places on earth celebrate and gather around a drink, attending sakau night in Pohnpei is truly a one of a kind experience for visitors. A warm night thrumming with the pounding of sakau roots, shared drinking and the idle chatter of the people create a seductive atmosphere that is certainly one of the highlights of experiencing this unique Pohnpeian culture.